Discovering Old Oporto - This morning (our last morning together as group) explore Old Oporto. The city is one of the most beautiful in Europe and it still retains its charm and beauty. We visit Oporto Cathedral, the tiles at Sao Bento station and its markets. Later on visit the home of a Portuguese family and have a chat about family life in Portugal and taste their homemade appetizers and family estate-produced wine. Lunch on your own. Afternoon free to pack or discover more of the city on your own. We go to see Lello y Irmao bookstore - wow! Later in the afternoon, we meet with Helena for a program wrap up session. Ned (my surrogate dad – long story) suggests we all prepare limericks to share our thoughts for the last meeting.
My Observations
Today is like any of the prior tour days – busy. Even with most of our group preparing to leave, we still have time for “another learning tour.” Because of time limits, the number of places yet to see, and the distance covered, we get to ride the bus. After a short ride, we start a walking tour. Before getting to the cathedral & train station, we have some key stops. Since I didn’t keep notes, will have to rely on my review of the photos I took. We get off the bus across from Carmo (Carmelite) church - Igreja da Nossa Senhora do Carmo das Carmelitas. The church wall has a large Azulejo tile mural on the wall. We get oriented to where we are because the bus can’t easily get to some of the places we will see.
We continue a few yards, walking and basically turn around 360 degrees to see all that is in this neighborhood. The Carmo Church. Museum of Natural History. A few University buildings. The Museum of Photography. The Sunday Bird seller Market. Lello & Irma’s “most beautiful bookstore in the world!” The Tower of Clergy that is on the back of a church built around 1700. Hey, almost forgot, a neglected park area that was returned to becoming again, an olive grove. The interesting part is how that grove is now the living roof on top of a building that has shops and cafes.
No matter which way we turned, Helena had something new and important to share. Glad that Carol & I planned for extra days here. Just too much to view and remember. Just in case I missed something from this walk, check the walking tour link for Campos Mártires da Patria. We “eventually” reboard the bus and are dropped off at the Sao Bento train station. Getting out of the bus, can smell the roasted chestnuts from the street vendor. For those with us, can you remember her shouted chant – get your hot stuff here? After a short walk, we get another visit to Sao Bento Train Station. This time with details from Helena. The tile covered entry walls depict much of the history of Portugal. Just wonderful. Truly a “work of art.”
After a few minutes – on the road again. This time, we do get to the Cathedral. Much to admire. After looking at the cathedral from our room widow, we can finally get to enter and see what we were missing. I realize what we are looking at is not as old as when things were started in the 12th century. I can appreciate how many of these old buildings are still being used. Oops, sorry, can’t stay too long. Again, on the bus and drive across a bridge to get to the opposite side – the city of Gaia.
We pass the military barracks and fort and walk to a wall that overlooks the river. We can hear cheering below from across the river! The marathon that started early in the day has just got to the bridge where they run across to allow us a better view of them. Before, they looked like ants scurrying about – well, maybe somewhat following each other.
Got to hurry – don’t want to miss the highlight of the tour for me – Villar de Allen. An “odd” sounding Portuguese name you think? Maybe not. The Allen family came from England in the 18th century as part of the wine trade. Today, we are hosted by Isa & Alfredo Allen. They are the 7th generation to live in the house on this vineyard & garden grounds.
The Allen's are most gracious in sharing the family stories not only of wine making and blending, but also of horticulture. We walked the ground a bit having Alfredo point out some plants, palms and other vegetation. Some were planted generations ago by family members who brought them from other exotic locations in the world.
The sharing continues when we get in their home. All 20 something of us are seated in the dining room area. Chocolate covered cookies are plentiful in the trays for us to “taste.” Need another? No problem. But...how many people would bring out enough bottles of 50 Euro price Port wine to share, for a generous glass or two? Alfredo had been trained as a blender many decades ago. This blend was of 4 or so vintages. I believe 1 as much as 25 years old.
After more descriptions of what is done there, we visit other parts of the home. Can you picture a home, solidly built centuries ago? When electricity was added some years ago, the wiring and switches are visible on the walls, rather than inside as we have in our homes. We get to enjoy the family museum and private chapel that had Roman Catholic mass conducted at times. Bedrooms? Yes, nice cozy and still used daily. After moving down the floors to the cellar, find bottles on several shelves. Each shelf, a label written in chalk. I spy a few with dates over a hundred years ago. Another label might read – great for after dinner.
After the home tour, time to see the gardens – especially the camellias – Alfredo's specialty. Helena told us this was how she met the Allen's – at a camellia show. We walk, we look, we admire. We are treated to walk in a living museum. See links for more details.
Yes, I could go on, but don’t want to bother you. Carol & I finish the day at out local favorite restaurant. I ask for a beer, having enough potent wine already today – some port wines are around 25% alcohol, since they are fortified with distilled spirits. Most wines are half that @ 10%. Beers generally less than 5%. Our waiter asks me – small or jar? I think for a moment – I’m thirsty. Give me the bigger one, not really thinking of his request – small or jar? Whoa – out comes a large mug - 1 Liter worth, that is referred locally as jarra.
Yes, I did have a good night’s sleep? Why do you ask...??? (-;[>
Here are internet links for highlights:
Carmo Church http://www.localporto.com/carmo-camelitas-church/
Lellos y Irmao Livraria http://www.localporto.com/bookstore-lello-irmao/
Lellos Libreria photo links http://www.google.com/Lello+Irma
Sunday Bird Market http://www.examiner.com/feira-dos-p-ssaros
Torre do Clergio http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clérigos_Church
Centro Português de Fotografia http://www.cpf.pt/
Instituto de Saúde Pública da Universidade do Porto (ISPUP) http://ispup.up.pt/
Campos Mártires da Patria http://www.thelisbonconnection.com/walking
Sao Bento station http://www.atlasobscura.com/places/sao-bento-station
Oporto Cathedral http://www.porto-tourism.com/cathedral
Villar de Allen http://quevedoportwine.com/1827-villar-dallen
Quinta Villar de Allen http://wikimapia.org/3544925/Quinta-de-Villar-d-Allen
Eiffel Bridge http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maria_Pia_Bridge
Photo 1. Daytime view from our hotel window. Train station foreground. Tall building background is cathedral.
Photo 2. Lello y Irmao bookstore – another claim to be world’s most beautiful – I agree!
Photo 3. You see street “art” everywhere (-:
Click here for today's online photo album.
https://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/Day21Of272Nov14SundayPorto
